Review: Hotel Le Toiny: First In

Set the scene

This namesake hillside resort set above Toiny Bay gives ‘wild’ an unexpected new meaning when it comes to sceney St Barts: On the scrubby southeastern point of the island, this unfussy haven is where an in-the-know social set head to find serenity, whether via an early morning surf lesson or at the wave-lapped beach club. Rugged shoreline views and cacti-dotted greenery imbue a sense of calm from the second you’re greeted with a glass of Champagne at check-in. Fellow guests can range from stylish honeymooners to laidback billionaires who are here for the privacy—something that can be hard to come by closer to the hard-partying town center of Gustavia.

The backstory

The 42-acre, Relais & Chateaux-affiliated property is owned by British couple Charles and Mandie Vere Nicoll, who honeymooned on this hillside 40 years ago and never stopped coming back (Charlie swears Anse de Toiny hasn’t changed much since then), eventually buying the iconic property in 2015 and renovating it two years later. The star amenity here is the private beach accessible via a three-minute ride down the switchbacking roads below: Le Toiny’s stretch of soft sand is considered the sole private hotel beach on St Barts (although the surf break is open to non-guests, which makes the beach club perfect for water-sports spectating, too). The beach club, devoid of the island’s table dancing crowd, is ideal for chilled-out dining with a side of wave and wildlife watching—keep your eyes peeled for tortoises, goats, sea turtles, and giant hermit crabs—over a fresh cocktail (or two). The freshly grilled fish specials, like the sea bream served in foamy tomato gazpacho and house coconut rice, are a must try. And as an added bonus: Some of the oldest traditional houses on St Barts, dating back to the 1700s, can be found beside the beach club; one is used as a treatment area for the spa.

The rooms

Secluded infinity-pool decks boast far-flung views of the azure sea and surfers paddling out to the white caps consistently churning up on this side of the island. The suites and villas here were redesigned in 2024 by Bee Osborn interiors to swap in more modern touches: Linen wall coverings and driftwood-clad living areas are layered in textured neutrals that pull off a chic minimalism and manage not to be boring or lean into clichés; stone lamps, feathered wall art, oversized accent vases, hardwood flooring, and vaulted ceilings covered in shiplap create airy living spaces that draw on the leafy open-air surroundings and draw your eye outward to the water views beyond the sliding glass doors. Bathrooms are particularly chic, with a cork-striated accent wall, raffia wall lamps, and heavy wooden mirror frames accenting the stone countertops, walk-in shower, and a deeply inviting standalone tub. Ortigia toiletry kits provide a pop of color as well as aromatherapy scents for heavenly post-beach showers.

Food and drink

Le Toiny Restaurant is where guests gather for breakfast and dinner alike, and new, too, with the 2024 interior renovations is a reinvented Mediterranean menu: Shared small plates like scallop and hamachi crudos, mushroom-dressed wagyu beef, lobster fritters with ponzu, and a smokey asparagus-nestled salmon have replaced the once brasserie-leaning fare. Drinks live up to the island’s party-inclined reputation—try the Marry Me, a foamy tequila-soaked take on a Cosmopolitan—and the wine list leans international with plenty of French roses for easy drinking in the warm weather. Likewise for the fresh daily-squeezed juices, including the rotating daily detox concoction I opted for at breakfast daily.

The in-room mini bar’s snacks (salty and sweet nut mixes, candies, and chips) as well as soft drinks, wine, and beer are included in a stay—except for the top-shelf liquor bottles available for a charge. The armoire-style wet bar has an Nespresso-pod coffee maker and chic Smeg kettle with assorted teas, all also included and replenished daily.

The neighborhood/area

Anse, or cove, de Toiny, is located on the eastern outskirts of the island that have become synonymous with five-star beach resorts—about a 15 minute drive from St Jean’s town center that bustles with shops, cafes, and public-waterfront hotels. The hillside that Le Toiny crowns is lush with succulent flora that attracts goats and the slow-moving tortoises that are somewhat of a traffic-stalling mascot for the island; don’t be surprised if your taxi or hotel-shuttle driver makes an abrupt stop to jump out and swiftly lift one of the critters across the roadway. The well-located bay is also a stone’s throw from nightlife hubs like Gustavia, so table dancing and yacht marinas are easily accessible by taxi if and when you want to seek them out, but not a permanent part of your stay’s scenery. The beach here, which is palm-tree-fringed and soft sanded (save for some coral-y rocks in the wave breaks) is perfect for a dip but not recommended for deeper swimming due to swift and sudden rip currents.

The service

Warm and laidback; detail-oriented yet casual. At dinner, plates arrive swiftly and with a knowing drink or wine recommendation; breakfast service is similarly speedy, with coffee specifications memorized to a T. Rooms are serviced twice daily (once for an impeccable early clean-up and again for an extensive turndown-service sweep) with fun touches like decadent welcome cookies.

Like on almost all Caribbean islands, however, good things can take some time—so shift into island time and don’t expect everything (especially some in-room service) to come in a rush, whether your room-service breakfast or a toothbrush kit. When your request does arrive, however, be prepared to be wowed—a simple request for extra ice in your drink might be met with an entire ice bucket to use at your leisure, for instance.

Spa

There’s a small gym onsite, as well as a spa with a deep menu of treatments ranging from facials to specialty massages for beachside relaxation.

Accessibility

There are two wheelchair accessible rooms on-property, and buggies or small vehicles can cart guests around the sprawling property. It’s worth noting, however, that terrain on-resort can be steep and rocky, and beach access requires a short (three to five minute) shuttle ride.

Anything left to mention?

If St Barts’ reputation for heaving parties and see-and-be-seen celebrities might have you thinking the Champagne-drenched French Caribbean island isn’t for you, Le Toiny probably is—and anyone else who wants the serenity of a wild coastline at their fingertips.