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Growing up in a large Irish Catholic family, I’ve heard for years about the beauty of Ireland and of the places that you simply have to visit—Dublin (with a stop at the Guinness brewery, naturally), Cork, Galway, the Cliffs of Moher. When I spoke to an Irish friend in New York City, he mentioned a place I’d never heard of: Glendalough. Less than 90 minutes southwest of Dublin, the glacial valley in County Wicklow is famous not just for its stunning natural landscape, but also for the remains of a sixth-century settlement founded by St. Kevin of Glendalough.
Once I arrived in the area, I opted for an Airbnb over a hotel because I had visions of those cozy Irish cottages, with their bone-white exteriors and thatch roofs, dotted throughout the emerald green landscape—the prototypical storybook cottage. And I was in luck: My search brought me to An Nead, or The Nest, situated just down the road from the Glendalough visitor center.
The only way to get there was by car. While it was stressful navigating the winding roads, the drive was beautiful: The trees were starting to turn golden against the green of the Scotch pines. The directions from the host were precise, thanks to an “eircode,” the Irish postal code system launched in 2015, which I was able to enter into Google Maps to get the exact location.
The Nest was as charming as I’d hoped: It was located on one end of a rambling cottage of characteristic whitewashed stone. While the listing is classified as a private room, it was really a private residence with its own entrance and kitchenette. In fact, I never came across anyone while there.
As I stepped inside, it felt like I was entering another time. I was greeted first by the rustic, low-ceilinged kitchenette that featured a raw-edge wood counter and an oblong sink made of mottled stone. There was a step up to the large main space, which included a sitting area with a comfy sofa and an electric fireplace, and a small dining area with a table set for two. At the front of the house, light streams in through the bay window (from which you can see the Wicklow Mountains).
The inside is clean and well-appointed. The white stone walls and high ceilings gave it a bright, airy quality, but the live-edge wood accents throughout, the lush upholstery, and the variety of indoor plants made the space cozy. Despite its historic appearance, the appliances—temperature controls, mini fridge, microwave, electric kettle, TV—were all modern. A spiral staircase led to the loft, where the bed and bathroom were. A backdoor on the second floor opened to an outdoor sitting area and the path to the covered hot tub.
It rained my first night there, but luckily, I woke up to sunshine. I headed less than a mile down the road to the visitor center—just beyond are the ruins of the medieval settlement and cemetery. From there, I followed the path deeper into the park. After passing some tour groups and a couple of sheep, I arrived at the breathtaking larger Upper Lake, which lay at the base of steep hills. I hiked to a ridge with killer views of the valley and lakes, and at one point, looking down on the landscape, I could actually see my Airbnb in the distance. After my hike, I stopped for a coffee and a slice of plum cake at Glendalough Café in the closest town of Laragh.
I was back in the Nest as the sun was about to set, and made a beeline for the hot tub. The stone pathway that led up to the hot tub was like a secret garden: various plants and flowers intermixed with carefully placed benches and decorations, including the gazebo that housed the hot tub—which was illuminated with fairy lights. I soaked my weary bones for a while and enjoyed the peace and quiet. The only sound was the gentle swoosh of trees dancing in the breeze; my only visitor a red deer that, once we made eye contact, dashed back into the woods.
An Nead was the perfect haven for solo travelers like me, or couples in search of a romantic getaway. The scenery in Glendalough rivaled some of the more famous sites on the Irish west coast, where I headed after my stay. If you find yourself in Dublin and don’t have a ton of time, a quick day trip to this valley will satisfy your itch for nature—and a stay at An Nead will do the same for that Irish cottage dream.
