Review: Six Senses Zighy Bay

Why book?

For complete serenity in a secluded corner of Oman where jagged mountains plunge straight into the sea.

Set the scene

As we approach Six Senses Zighy Bay, tarmac gives way to rock-peppered dust tracks lined with Sidr trees, beneath which roaming mountain goats shelter from the harsh midday sun. Luckily, the sleek gunmetal Jeep that collected us at the UAE/Oman Dibba border can easily handle the terrain. The resort’s stone gateway entrance would be easy to miss in this mountainous landscape, were it not for the purple Six Senses flag fluttering gently in the breeze. We wind up through the mountains until the horseshoe of Zighy Bay comes into sight below. The road down to the resort veers off to the right, but we turn left, and instead follow the sign for paragliding. For guests who are brave enough, the magic of Six Senses Zighy Bay starts here, taking a leap of faith in the comforting hands of the resort’s expert pilots. Weather conditions pending, the glide back down to land takes around 10 minutes, the parachute gently swaying between the terracotta cliffs. The turquoise shallows of the Gulf of Oman become brighter the lower we get, and between the oases of date palms below, the resort’s stone brick villas start to show themselves.

The backstory

Before the resort opened in 2008, this stretch of sand lay all but untouched, a secret kept for the local families from tiny Zighy village, tucked into the far corner of the bay, and the fishermen who sailed these waters. From the off, Six Senses has worked closely with villagers to ensure the neighbouring resort enhances their lives, rather than disrupts it. Around 0.5 per cent of annual revenue is invested back into the local community, used to help rebuild houses, provide English teachers for local children and provide equipment for schools and medical supplies. Several of the villagers are currently employed by the resort – including 20 Omani women.

The neighbourhood/area

Six Senses Zighy Bay is very much the end destination for travellers, although there is much to see en route before civilisation slips away. For those driving from Dubai (most people do, it’s around two hours from DXB Airport, as opposed to almost five from the Omani capital, Muscat), the journey will pass through six of the UAE’s seven emirates and landscapes go from cityscape to desert to mountain. The nearest town, Dibba, sits on the UAE/Oman border, and is well known in these parts for its incredible oysters and seafood. It’s worth a pitstop here to stroll along the pretty waterfront promenades and pop into one of the speciality coffee shops to appreciate a slow and authentic side of the UAE. On the Omani side of the border, the glistening fjords of Musandam, filled with wooden dhow boats in search of resident pods of dolphins, lie further along the jagged coastline.

The rooms

The resort’s 82 villas are designed to mimic a traditional Omani village, built with thick stone walls and topped with roofs made from tightly strung palm fronds. All categories – starting from villas and suites to duplexes and sprawling private residences – come with private pools and their own secluded stretch of the bay's powder-white sands. The rooms feel charmingly rustic – hedgehog-shaped shoe brushes sit by the door to sweep away signs of the beach and physical keys (no cards here) come attached to heavy wooden key chains – without sacrificing on luxury mod-cons. My beachfront villa suite has a separate living and bedroom space, two bathroom areas (plus an outdoor shower) and floor-to-ceiling doors, which, when the weather allows, can be opened up onto the huge patio, creating indoor-outdoor living that is steps away from the beach, separated only by the private infinity pool. A traditional summer house tucked away out front is a nice touch, with majlis-style seating and a tiny square window that opens directly to the sea below. A shady afternoon spent in here, with nothing but the sound of waves for company, is utter bliss.

Food and drink

There are five on-site restaurants, the highlight of which is undoubtedly Sense on the Edge, a cliffside terrace a short drive up the mountain, overlooking the resort below. Nightly sundowners allow guests to take in a dusky pink sky backlit from the sunset on the other side of the mountains, while enjoying a pomegranate mojito and bento-box style canapes. Summer House serves international dishes for light lunches and breezy dinners (the Omani prawn pasta is a must), while Shua Shack offers beachfront dining and a true taste of Oman, with slow-cooked meats the speciality here. Spice Market serves dishes from all corners of the Middle East, prepared in the traditional mud kitchen using largely local ingredients. The sharing mezze boards are quite the spectacle – be sure to arrive hungry. It’s here guests will also find the daily breakfast buffet. For something really special, book an intimate private dinner in the Wine Cellar, surrounded by more than 1,500 bottles, for a multi-course pairing experience conducted by candlelight.

The spa

This being a Six Senses, wellness is big here. The spa sits at the heart of the resort, and offers customised wellness plans for the duration of guest’s stay, should they wish. It’s just as easy to dip in for a one-off treatment, as I do for a signature Balinese massage, which is 60 minutes of sheer reverie. There are two hammams on site, as well as steam and sauna rooms, a well-equipped gym, and a regular class, the highlight of which is sunrise yoga. Look out for visiting practitioners and daily sessions at the spa’s Alchemy Bar, where guests can make their own natural products to take home and use in their treatments.

The service

Is immaculate. Six Senses Zighy Bay runs like a well-oiled machine, with many faces I meet having been at the property for several years. My Guest Experience Manager, Julius, has been here since the very start and his 16 years of knowledge pour out of him with the enthusiasm of someone brand new to the job. It’s an attitude I find again and again throughout the property, and it’s clear all staff care deeply about their quiet corner of Oman, and the impact they leave not only on guests, but on the land and community around them.

Eco-effort

While sustainability can, at times, feel like an afterthought, especially in this part of the world, it has always been at the core of what Six Senses Zighy Bay is about. The resort was built with this in mind, and the infrastructure is truly impressive. The 400,000 litres of water used each day gets filtered straight from the sea – first cleaned naturally through rock and sand via the on-site well, before making its way to the desalination plant. The cleaned water is bottled for drinking, while the rest is used to fill the resort’s pools. Dirty water goes to the onsite sewage plant, if it’s not recycled for irrigation. Much of the produce is grown on-site or at nearby Dibba Farm, which also produces local cheeses, milk and yoghurt thanks to its resident goats. On-site workshops repair bicycles, AC units and furnishings to limit waste, while glass is crushed down to be used in craft workshops. Guests have the chance to take a 60-minute sustainability tour alongside director of sustainability Armand Thieblemont, who is, quite rightly, intensely proud of the work done here, and is not afraid to take guests behind the scenes to show them exactly how it all works, sewage plants and all.

Anything left to mention?

Don’t miss a trip on one of the resort’s three private boats to explore the surrounding coves – it’s the best way to truly understand the remoteness of Zighy Bay and take in the dramatic landscapes. Don’t be surprised if you spot a pod of dolphins, or in our case, a group of friendly eagle rays.