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The damage that Hurricane Helene wrought on Western North Carolina’s mountain towns this fall has been hard to comprehend. In late September, Asheville recorded over nine inches of rain in just two days, causing severe flooding in areas like Biltmore Village and the city’s burgeoning River Arts District. Landslides forced closures on key highways I-26 and I-40, cutting off major access routes; power outages and disruptions to cellular service left residents isolated for days, making the aftermath feel “post-apocalyptic” to many residents and visitors. Utilities, including water and power, were restored in stages, with certain areas still in recovery mode today: On November 18, after a 53-day water crisis, the City of Asheville City finally lifted its boil-water notice, restoring clean and potable water throughout Asheville’s taps.
Restored clean water is huge step for restaurants and hotels to safely reopen—but it may be too little, too late for some businesses. This year, the city completely missed out on its most crucial season for visitors: fall. Asheville-area businesses heavily rely on the high-season dollars of leaf peepers as the bulk of their revenue for the entire year. To put this in perspective: on average, Buncombe County hotels sold over $50 million in bookings during October 2023—the next closest month of revenue, December, trailed that number by $11 million. September ($38.8 million) and July ($38.7 million) followed. This means that Asheville’s tourism numbers may not bounce back until the summer, and 2025 is going to represent a prolonged comeback.
Despite the losses, the Asheville Regional Airport has been open since the week of the storm, and tourism reopenings have been slowly occurring since then. The iconic Biltmore Estate—George Vanderbilt's historic 250-room chateau that can host overnight guests—reopened its doors to guests this month, just in time for the landmark’s annual Christmas at Biltmore celebrations.
“The Asheville area welcomes visitors who come with patience and heart as they support us and return to this special place,” says Vic Isley, president of Explore Asheville. “The heart of our local hospitality community has never been more alive than the days and weeks following Hurricane Helene—from beds and meals for first responders to care and clean-up in the community. Your plans to return give us hope and heart.”
The city and surrounding areas are still working through Hurricane Helene’s damage, with some areas still seeing continued water issues, road repairs, and power outages—yet, “many local businesses, restaurants, and hotels across the Asheville area are open and safely welcoming guests,” says Isley. While planning is essential, travelers can support Asheville by planning a trip there this winter or for 2025. Here’s how to do it, the businesses that are now welcoming tourists, and those that are still on their way to recovery—but may be open to other ways you can support them.
How to help Asheville from afar
Even if you don’t plan to visit right now, there are many ways to help the region recover, including buying gift cards from any of the businesses mentioned in this guide, or shopping their online storefronts: At East Fork Pottery (founded by Alex Matisse, the grandson of renowned French artist Henri Matisse) 5% of sales, both in-store and online, are going to disaster organizations in the community. Wrong Way Campground’s Oxford Pennant ‘Asheville Forever’ flag is sending all profits to the Equal Plates Project; and BeLoved Asheville is focusing on helping BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and People of Color) individuals and communities of low wealth to rebuild. In the wake of Hurricane Helene, Explore Asheville created a digital platform, Love Asheville From Afar, where you can shop for local products from those small businesses and artists who were greatly impacted.
The best things to do in Asheville
Asheville is a place where locals and tourists collide in a funky mountain town—where Victorian homes and historic buildings rub shoulders with edgy art galleries, indie boutiques, and street performers who’ll make you stop in your tracks. Its rise as a popular destination can be traced back to the late 19th century when George Washington Vanderbilt II built the Biltmore Estate, the largest privately owned home in America, which showcased the region’s natural beauty. Asheville grew with the expansion of railroads, at which time the city cemented its reputation as a resort town for the elite. In more recent years, it’s become a four-time winner of the Beer City USA title, attracting major players like Sierra Nevada and New Belgium Brewing to establish East Coast locations nearby. Asheville is proud in its quest to remain “weird,” with unique art and outdoor offerings—but it’s also undeniably cool, thanks to the James Beard-worthy chefs and a breezy vibe, all tucked into the striking Blue Ridge Mountains, which appear like something out of a Bob Ross painting.
Whether hiking scenic trails or embarking on a whitewater rafting trip, adventure seekers will find a perfect playground. The French Broad River, one of the world’s oldest rivers, winds through the heart of Asheville and remains central to the city's outdoor culture today. Hiking along the Blue Ridge Parkway is on everyone’s must-do list, but after Hurricane Helene, access is limited. The Blue Ridge Parkway Visitor Center, as well as adjacent trails like Graveyard Fields and Black Balsam, are now open and you can check the updated hike reopenings list before heading out. For in the city limits nature, the North Carolina Arboretum, a 434-acre public garden within the Bent Creek Experimental Forest, is a must.
If relaxation is more your speed, unwind at Shoji Spa & Retreat, a mountainside escape minutes from downtow, soaking in private outdoor hot tubs. Or downtown, Sauna House provides Scandinavian-style saunas and cold plunges. Check out the North Asheville Tailgate Market on Saturdays, where you can score local products like Hominy Farm’s bread, Bridge & Tunnel Coffee Company, Sleight Family Farm’s produce, and Ali Rae’s Pimento Cheese. It’s a great way as a tourist to help support small local businesses.
The quirky River Arts District (RAD) was unfortunately one of the most hurricane-impacted places—but many studios, eateries, and galleries in the upper part of the district are open and welcoming customers. Step into NorthLight Studios for a pet portrait by artist Angela Alexander, or to Jeffrey for ancient-inspired jewelry by the so-called “Mayor of the River Arts District,” Jeffrey Burroughs. Shop at There There for a curated collection of consciously made clothing and home goods, and hit Curve Studios & Garden for ceramics; the area is full of striking ceramics studios.
In West Asheville, shop Provisions Mercantile for curated home goods; Flora (operating at limited hours for now) is a must for plant lovers. Stop by Fleetwood’s, where a rock-and-roll-themed wedding chapel, vintage clothing shop, and cocktail bar coexist under one roof. In West Asheville, co-Founders Tarleton Walmsley and Seth Connelly reopened Garden Party in a new space last week; the cannabis-adjacent space sells cool sundries, with a focus on social justice.
Downtown’s hilly streets are filled with many things to see. If contemporary art is your thing, don’t miss Blue Spiral 1 for local art like Reuben Negrón’s realist drawings and narrative watercolors. Stop by East Fork Pottery to stock up on the latest colors of their fashionable ceramics line and fund post-Helene efforts in the area (the aforementioned 5% of proceeds are currently going to Nanostead, Be Well AVL, and Umoja). Book nerds should head to Malaprop's Bookstore, a beloved independent shop that has been a literary hub for decades; browse the carefully curated shelves or attend one of the many events that keep the place buzzing with life.
Asheville is also known for its diverse LGBTQ+ community, with vibrant events like Served by Sev Drag Brunch at The Mule at Devil's Foot Beverage—a lively drag brunch. There’s also O. Henry's, the oldest gay bar in which opened in 1976 and is still home to ongoing drag shows, dance parties, trivia nights, and more. If you’re considering a September visit, Blue Ridge Pride Festival takes place in Pack Square and is known nationwide as one of the best pride festivals in the South.
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Where to eat in Asheville
Chefs like Katie Button of Cúrate, Meherwan Irani of Chai Pani, and William Dissen of The Market Place have established Asheville as a culinary destination, blending regional traditions with inventive flavors. Asheville’s farm-to-table movement began long before the concept was trendy, with Mark Rosenstein opening The Market Place in 1979 as one of the pioneers. In 2009, chef William Dissen took over the restaurant, maintaining the ethos of working with local purveyors—and the restaurant was nominated for a James Beard award for Outstanding Restaurant this year, its 45th year in business. In the aftermath of Helene, restaurants Cúrate, Bears BBQ, and Chai Pani opened up their kitchens for World Central Kitchen to help feed those in most need.
While Cúrate remains a prized reservation for visitors, Button and Félix Meana’s La Bodega, where Spanish aperitivo culture shines with tapas and pintxos, is a more relaxed option. If wine director, Jessica Salyer is behind the bar, prepare for a fun intro to Spanish wines and vermut.
Chai Pani is serving Indian street food in an expanded space with exciting new dishes—but don’t worry, their beloved matchstick okra fries are here to stay—and chef Meherwan Irani is gradually reopening the full restaurant, with a Hurricane Hot Bar through December offering classics like spicy lamb kheema, crispy masala fish fry, butter chicken, kale pakoras, and more. We can only hope the vibrant, Bollywood-inspired upstairs bar—with its pani puri and inventive cocktails—makes a triumphant return soon. Don’t forget to check out Irani’s newest outpost, Botiwalla, a spot that pays homage to the lively cafes of India.
All Souls Pizza is a local favorite for its farm-driven pizzas, extensive wine list, and ample outdoor space perfect for families; meals end with nightcaps of soft serve for the table. Hit Terra Nova Beer Co. for the beer, but stay for pizza from Mission Pizza Asheville, a sister concept to its original Neapolitan location in Winston-Salem, a top-25-ranked pizza slice in the United States. Post-Helene, the spot pivoted into Mission Pizza Romana, serving up Roman-style squares, which Geoff Smith, co-owner, says are a more efficient solution in a time when labor shortages and high demand pose significant challenges: “We love them so it was a natural pivot without compromising who we are or our commitment to making the best product out there.”
If you’re craving Southern nostalgia in the form of a fish fry, Good Hot Fish is a must that pays homage to Carolina fish camps. During Helene, chef and owner Ashleigh Shanti teamed up with Silver Iocovozzi and the Neng Jr’s team (who are not yet re-opened, but currently doing pop-ups) to prepare free meals for those in need. “For now, it’s incredibly important as a small restaurant to have the ability to gauge the amount of ice and water we need on a daily basis,” says Shanti. “Our seafood restaurant requires a lot of ice, and these things come at a pretty big cost for us now.”
Steven Goff is back in action at Tastee Diner, a 1940s-style diner where the local chopped beef is a staple. For Oaxacan-inspired fare, chef Luis Martinez of Taqueria Rosita (located inside The Odd bar) serves tlayudas (crispy tortillas topped with refried beans, meats, cheeses, and crunchy veggies) traditionally eaten to sop up Mezcal-filled nights in Oaxaca, plus heirloom corn-based tacos. The Odd is an iconic institution with memorabilia all over the walls and a Zoltar Machine, and on any given night you could find a drag show, magician, or just lively locals enjoying a night out.
At Anoche, small-producer agave spirits and espresso collide in a tiny, ultra-cool space. Try the Verde V with sotol, or dive into a mezcal flight for something adventurous. At Botanist and Barrel Tasting Bar + Bottle Shop, pair a glass with tinned seafood from the impressive collection—the largest in the Southeast. Taste the brand’s cider and natural DeFi Wines made with local, sustainable grapes and Southern heirloom apples. Hurricane Helene unraveled local farms’ crops and business overnight, but business owners remain hopeful for next season despite setbacks: “We had orchards just coming into their best season yet—finally seeing the results after years of nurturing these forgotten trees back to life. [With] the storm, that momentum was ripped away,” co-owner Amie Fields says. “We’re determined to rebuild—not just for us, but for everyone around here who makes up this crazy, resilient patchwork of small farms and local producers.”
At Eda Rhyne Distilling Company, which crafts regional spirits like Appalachian Fernet and Rustic Nocino, the bar and tasting room are still closed—but travelers can get a taste of the brand’s The Bitter End cider, a collaboration that marries fernet and cider, at Botanist and Barrel, with proceeds helping the distillery to reopen.
For stellar wine don’t miss Leo’s House of Thirst, where natural wines complement dishes like tartare, chicken liver mousse, and deviled eggs. The outdoor patio, complete with fire pits, makes it a perfect spot to relax with friends. Whiskey enthusiasts should head to Wildwood Still, the rooftop bar atop the Moxy Asheville featuring 360-degree views and a collection of over 150 whiskeys. Or cozy up at Contrada, Brian Canipelli’s laid-back neighborhood bar with a small, curated list of pizzas, snacks, draft cocktails, and an excellent Italian wine list. As for beer, there’s still no shortage of cool breweries in town; Burial Beer, Wicked Weed, Green Man Brewery, and Highland Brewing Company, to name a few.
There’s also bakeries, bread, and treats abound in Asheville. Owl Bakery serves artisanal croissants flavored with rum and orange blossom; Flour is your go-to for mouthwatering breakfast biscuits (and the breakfast salad is a delight, too). Over in the River Arts District, Mother AVL is like a bread gallery with wine retail, while their new South Slope spot offers Euro-style café vibes with incredible bread-driven dishes like the croque madame with carbonara béchamel. For a sweet treat, grab a hot chocolate at French Broad Chocolate Lounge on Pack Square. And while Newstock Pantry’s River Arts District was severely flooded and is closed indefinitely, you can find their divine cinnamon rolls at several places around town, including on Tuesdays at the West Asheville Tailgate Market.
Where to stay in Asheville post-Helene
Many hotels have opened since, including most recently the iconic Asheville Flatiron building’s namesake Flat Iron Hotel. Once a signal of the city’s roaring 1920s, the property pays homage to the Gilded Age with Art Deco elements—and chef Graham House helms the kitchen at Italian farm-to-table restaurant Luminosa (don’t miss his fat-rendered tater tots).
In the River Arts District, The Radical is a whimsical hotel with murals by local muralist Ian Wilkinson decorating the common areas and guestrooms. While it was closed for a period post-Helene, the hotel is now back in action for travelers.
"Here in Asheville, the River Arts District is an important and vibrant part of our small city, and unfortunately, we’ve seen a lot of losses,” says Jacob Sessoms, chef behind the food and beverage concepts at the hotel including Golden Hour restaurant, Afterglow cafe, and the property’s Rooftop Bar. “We know Asheville and the River Arts District are coming back even better than before, because that’s the spirit of our community,” says Sessoms.
Tucked away in downtown’s South Slope on Biltmore Avenue, Zelda Dearest is a 20-room boutique hotel converted from three restored turn-of-the-century mansions—each named after the sisters of Zelda Fitzgerald, who spent her last days in Asheville. Downtown’s Kimpton Hotel Arras, a former bank from the 1960s, remains the tallest building in Asheville, offering the most iconic panoramic views of the Blue Ridge Mountains from its stylish rooms. Blind Tiger Asheville, a boutique hotel, reopened on November 14 to bookings taking place within Wednesday through Sunday nights, for now, while the business is operating with limited team members.
Others lodging options, like the historic Chestnut Street Inn bed and breakfast, remain closed for now. Owner Emilie Kapp has processed over $30,000 in refunds, and “as a B&B, we run the business on deposits,” Kapp says. “The occasional cancellation doesn’t hurt, but the month of October and November keep us afloat from January through April.” There’s a long road to recovery ahead for small businesses in 2025—but Kapp is optimistic about welcoming guests in a new way in early 2025.
“Visitors to Asheville and Western North Carolina are vital to helping us stand our mountain town back up after Helene,” says Shelton Steele, co-owner of reopened Wrong Way River Lodge & Cabins, whose A-frame cabins along the French Broad River are equipped with comfy beds, sound machines, record players, and portable hammocks. “We’re a basecamp for people to explore the urban outdoors. Our communal spaces offer guests a space for reflection and gratitude,” Steele says. “We’re more sure of our mission than ever.”
